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Indeed, it has more fine restaurants than many major cities, and I would include Las Vegas, San Diego, Seattle, Providence, Miami, and Dallas.

This critical mass has been building ever since the late 1970s when places like Domaine Chandon opened its doors and Mustards Grill set the absolute proper template for wine country dining.

Co-owned by Vanity Fair editor-in-chief Graydon Carter, it's routinely packed with a mix of celebrities and the who's who of New York's social landscape.

The main room's red booths, fireplaces, and low lighting make for a comfortable hangout, and the indoor/outdoor garden is a West Village gem.

Ryan Hardy mixes the garlic and chiles, along with fennel, into a satisfying tomato sauce that balances the bitter greens and adds lovely color, too.

GO TO RECIPEThe array of bitter greens, lightly wilted by hot garlic oil, is delicious with the flavors of balsamic vinegar and sweet quince paste in the dressing.

Chef Govind Armstrong recommends using a soft blue like Gorgonzola for making a creamy dish.

He slices the baked casserole into bite-size squares and tops them with a dollop of crème fraïche to serve with cocktails.

Its clean, bright setting (formerly Pinot Blanc) is wonderfully apt--white tiles, blue fabrics, white tablecloths, large glass windows, a fireplace, comfortable, well-set tables.

There is a broad marble sushi and sake bar as you enter, and you can just drop by for a bite there. There is also a tasting menu of shellfish, that includes Pacific oysters, Dungeness crabs, and Gulf prawns.

Tables form aisles, and in front of every table is a throng of people — at times impenetrable, depending on the popularity of that particular whiskey — brandishing Glencairn glasses while a harried brand representative scrambles to give everyone a pour while fielding occasional questions shouted out from the throng.

Depending on your mood and how many you’ve been to, it can be exciting, frustrating, enlightening, or just a way to get a drink of something you can’t otherwise afford.

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